I’m 43 years old and if you told me that I’d be as anxious as I was to cross a street at my age, I’d tell you that it is absurd. Instead, I successfully crossed two streets (and then crossed them again to get home) and I survived to write about it! What I probably shouldn’t tell you is that I was trying to get to the Sheraton Hotel, where I heard they have a fabulous spa. A former ex-pat suggested that a bit of self-care via spa pampering is a good way to cope with the sensory overload and discomfort of being in a new place. Who am I to argue with that logic?! 😉
Street sweepers cleaning the trash from the gutters. Behind them looms the Sheraton that I crossed the intersection for.
It feels ridiculous starting this post this way, but if you could have seen the anxiety on my face as I stepped out into the street you would understand. There are no rules here. People drive the wrong direction on roads, the don’t respect street lights, and I’m pretty sure that I look just out-of-place enough that I’m a fun moving target. I have visions of Duck Hunt on my old Atari 2600 replaying in my mind. (Which of course makes me want to say GO COUGS at the mention of Duck Hunt. Sorry Wendy!)
It is Sunday night and I’ve got 12 days logged here in Hyderabad. I’ve completed a week of work, figured out how to get an India phone number, and figured out how to buy toilet paper the second time I went to the store (the first time, I got home and discovered I’d bought “high-end” paper towels that are oddly shaped. A rough lesson (no pun intended) that had to be quickly corrected.
I wanted to share some early observations on this journey, as it is such a different world and I want to be able to have it come to life for those who are curious.
Lesson #1: Graciousness
This is a country filled with people who pride themselves on helping. I have lived a life feeling that I need to do everything for myself. I completely suck at asking for help and then accepting it on the rare instance I ask…it’s painful. The beautiful souls I’ve encountered here have forced me to relinquish a stubbornness I’d thought was impossible to get rid of. I don’t really have a choice, so am graciously accepting help when given.
Upon my arrival, I stayed at a hotel for a few nights as my apartment was getting cleaned and ready for me. The staff there insisted on carrying my coffee to my room each day, delivering me fresh water multiple times a day, bowing and smiling as if there was no end to their joy. Here, you say Namaste to say hello to people. It brings me a great sense of joy saying this word so often. And in thanks, I put my hands in prayer pose and humbly nod. It is a giving environment and exchange of services and pleasantries that I find a refreshing change from the pace and navel-gazing you often find in the U.S.
I made the mistake of going to Ikea on a Friday night. The first store to ever open in India and it is pure chaos. I was miserable.
Right now, I’m dependent on a driver to get around. It isn’t safe to drive here, so the company has provided me transportation for the first 45 days. This has been a relief in trying to do basics like get groceries, get to/from work, and visit the Airtel store so I can figure out my SIM card. I got edgy and bucked the system and left my apartment to walk to a coffee shop Saturday morning and it felt good to do something for myself. I appreciate my driver, but again, I’m relinquishing what I’ve known as how I get around.
And then there is Maddla, my House Assistant. This is a country where servants are very normal (although I DEEPLY struggle with that world). It is part of their caste system, of employing all members of society and providing them purpose. Prior to getting here I was struggling with the idea of having a cook, a maid – whatever the label was, I was hesitant. But I found a woman on an ex-pat Facebook group who I was chatting with and I said I was trying to find someone to help care for my dog during the
Maddle made these chapti to pair with some butter chicken. I had left overs so I made mini pizzas for dinner tonight. A taste of home!
day while I was at work. A friend of a friend of hers knew about a woman who had helped a family from the UK who had dogs, and she was known to speak English. I met here when I arrived and opened my home to her last Monday as I left for work. I come home from work every day and she has cleaned the house, cooked me supper, done the laundry, offers to make tea, and glows as she plays ball with Moksha. Mok loves her and is happy, and that is an incredible gift.
After a week, I now get it. She wants to help and be a part of making my life easier and
more streamlined, it is her job and I must get out of the way to let her do it. After a week, I’m getting my bearings and finding joy in what she has made for supper when I get home each day.
Lesson #2: Moksha is the Key
Moksha and me at the first-of-its-kind Dog Park in Hyderabad (the day before it opened)
There was a moment where I wavered on whether I was being selfish in bringing my dog to this foreign land that was filled with so much unknown. I worried for her safety and whether she could adapt. Little did I know that she would be the key to me fitting in and meeting people. This must be what it is like for parents when they go to a new place and depend on their kids for connection points. There are 4 buildings, each 14-stories high in my apartment complex. There is a circular driveway and walking path around the complex and sitting areas positioned in different spots around the path.
Once the temperatures cool at night, the seats are filled with groups of women and men
Moksha on the Channel 9 News. Already a celebrity on her third day in the city…unbelievable!
visiting (separate – and likely talking about each other, ha!). Moksha and I go out each night for a long walk and we take her favorite blue ball. She does a few tricks that they find great joy in and she is an unusual breed for this part of the world, so everyone wants to pet her. When they ask her name, and I tell them it is Moksha (a Sanskrit word that means freedom from all pain and suffering – essentially enlightenment for Hindus) they are immediately smitten.
Now, we go on walks a few times a day and we have people all over the complex waiving to her, kids running up to pet her, security guards cautiously smiling at her – it blows my mind. If I was alone, I’d just be upstairs in my apartment. With her, she is the conduit to me fitting in and letting me connect with people. What a gift she is!
Lesson #3: Contentment in Discomfort
If you want to buy beer (and there aren’t really any options, so Kingfisher it is!) you go to these street side “shops”. I was the only female and it was super sketch. Just zoom in on the steps to get there. But I went. I made a friend. I had to hear about Ivanka Trump, who had visited the city last year. I let them know I wasn’t a fan. Ha!
Everything I do is new. From turning a switch for my water to heat in the shower each morning, to how to order from Amazon and accept a delivery. The coffee is different, the customs are different, I ate lunch with my hands the other day (how does one do this and appear to have manners?!?), trying to find where the utensils are in the cafeteria at work, walking on the opposite side of the walkway – my brain hurts by the end of the day.
When I was at New Employee Orientation a group of young consultants were fascinated I would come here to work. Aside from the fact everyone knows that the money is in the US (I’m being paid in Rupees – this is about the experience, not about money), they want to understand why I would come here to live. I told them the following: The first reason is I want to learn and get engrained in a new culture; 2) I want to be uncomfortable.
I believe that we learn when we are uncomfortable. I can promise you that in my first 12
Beer Shampoo? I’m not falling for this, but nice try India!
days this is ringing true. I’ve slept REALLY well since I got into my apartment and I believe a big part of this is the daily struggle do just get by and do it without offending people. I smile a lot, I’ve been asking a lot of questions, and I’m trying to be respectful as I seek to understand.
I’m still tired enough at the end of the day that I don’t think I’ve realized that everything I knew is no longer close by. I suspect that once I get into a routine here, it will hit me how far away I am from those I love. Social media, texts, and FaceTime is helping me to feel close, but the fact I’m half a world away is still a bit surreal.
I live in India – it still kinda blows my mind.
Namaste.
They have street-side nurseries filled with every exotic plant you could imagine. And the prices are crazy cheep. My poor driver looked at me like I was crazy when I said I wanted to go somewhere to buy plants. He had just taken me to a fancy furniture store and I said that those fine things don’t interest me. I want something that is alive. He just smiled and said “yes madam.” Then he brought me here.
I’ve had the opportunity to travel to many places in the world that have Bougainvillea, yet I’ve never lived where I can have one that survives the weather. Here, I can have one, so Moksha and I have put one on our balcony. It makes me smile every time I look at it.
[AW1]